A cash offer will almost always be a smaller number than a list price, and it is still sometimes the better outcome. The reason is that the two numbers are not the same kind of number. A list price is a hope. A cash offer is a net. Once you subtract commission, seller paid closing costs, inspection repairs, and the months of carrying costs you pay while a house sits, the gap between the two usually shrinks, and on some houses it closes entirely. Here is how to run that math on your own house instead of guessing.
The only number that matters is what hits your account
Write two columns on a sheet of paper. At the top of one, put the price a good agent thinks the house will actually sell for, not the price they say to win the listing. At the top of the other, put the cash offer. Then subtract everything below from each column. Whatever is left at the bottom is the real comparison, and it is the only one worth arguing about.
Most sellers never do this, because the costs of a traditional sale come out in six or seven separate pieces spread over four months. They never feel like one big subtraction. They are.
What comes out of a traditional listed sale
Commission
Real estate commissions in Tennessee are negotiable and always have been. In practice, sellers commonly see a total in the range of 5 to 6 percent when they are paying both sides, and less when they negotiate the listing side down or when the buyer pays their own agent. Since the 2024 changes to how buyer agent compensation is advertised, more of this is genuinely up for discussion than it used to be, so ask. On a $300,000 sale, every full percentage point is $3,000.
Seller paid closing costs and concessions
Title fees, the deed transfer tax, prorated property taxes, and the recording fees all get settled at closing. Separate from those, buyers using FHA, VA, or conventional financing frequently ask the seller to cover part of their closing costs, and in a slower market they usually get it. This is a real subtraction that most sellers do not plan for, because it shows up as a concession negotiated after the offer is already accepted.
The second negotiation, after the inspection
The offer is not the deal. The inspection is where the deal gets repriced. A buyer's inspector will find the roof age, the HVAC age, the crawlspace moisture, the double tapped breaker, and the soft spot under the guest bathroom. Then the buyer asks for repairs or a credit. On an older house, this second negotiation can move more money than the first one did. Either you pay for the work, you credit the buyer, or you lose the buyer and start over with a house that now has a stale days on market count.
Prep before it ever lists
Paint, carpet, landscaping, a deep clean, a dumpster, sometimes storage and staging. These are out of pocket, and they come before any money comes in. If a house needs real work rather than cosmetics, the number gets much larger, and you are financing that work yourself.
Carrying costs while it sits
This is the line sellers forget, and on a slow house it is the biggest one. Every month the house is listed and every month it is under contract, you are still paying the mortgage, taxes, insurance, utilities, and lawn care. Add them up per month, then multiply by an honest estimate of how long the house will take to sell plus 30 to 45 days for the buyer's loan to close. If the house is vacant, add the higher vacant home insurance rate and the risk that something breaks with nobody there to notice.
What comes out of a cash sale
Usually much less, and that is the entire trade. A straightforward cash purchase has no agent commission on your side, no lender, no appraisal, no repair requests, and no financing contingency to fall through. When a buyer says they cover closing costs, what that generally means is the standard title and closing fees on the transaction. It does not mean your mortgage payoff, your delinquent property taxes, or a lien against the property. Those come out of your proceeds either way, because they have to be paid to deliver clear title. Ask for that distinction in writing before you sign anything. We walk through exactly which line items land where in our buying process.
A worked illustration
These are round made up numbers used only to show the shape of the math. They are not a real transaction and they are not a quote. Run your own.
Say a house would realistically list and sell at $300,000, and a cash offer comes in at $255,000.
- Commission at 5.5 percent: $16,500
- Seller paid buyer closing costs at 2 percent: $6,000
- Seller side closing and title costs: roughly $2,500
- Pre listing paint, carpet, and cleanup: $8,000
- Post inspection repair credit: $5,000
- Carrying costs, $2,200 per month for four months on market plus closing: $8,800
That is $46,800 of subtraction, leaving about $253,200 net on the listed sale against $255,000 on the cash sale, four months earlier and with none of the work. Change any assumption and the answer flips. A house in excellent condition in a hot part of town with no repairs and a 12 day sale does not lose $46,800, it might lose $22,000, and listing wins by a wide margin. That is the point. The math is not rigged for either side, it just depends on your actual house.
When listing clearly wins
- The house is in good condition and would show well with light cleanup.
- You have the time, the cash, and the patience to carry it for a few months.
- You can live in it, or hold it, while it sells.
- The house is in a neighborhood where buyers compete and days on market are short.
- There is no deadline pressing on you from a court date, a foreclosure sale, a job transfer, or a second mortgage payment.
If most of that describes your situation, interview a couple of good local agents. Anyone who tells you not to is not looking out for you.
When the cash offer wins
- The repair list is long enough that a financed buyer's lender would balk, or the roof and systems are at the end of their life.
- The house is vacant and burning money every month.
- There is a hard date involved, a foreclosure sale, a relocation, a divorce settlement, or an estate that needs to close.
- You do not have the cash to front repairs and prep, which is the most common reason listing does not actually work for a seller.
- Certainty matters more than the last few thousand dollars, because a financed contract can fall apart at appraisal or underwriting and put you back at day one.
If the condition is the issue, read what selling as is in Tennessee actually involves, because it does not mean what most people think. If the pressure is a foreclosure sale date, start with your foreclosure options before you talk to any buyer, including us. Several of those options keep the house, and they are worth ruling out first.
How to pressure test any cash offer you get
Ask these four questions, and get the answers in writing.
- What is my net, on paper, itemized? A real buyer will give you a line by line seller sheet showing your payoff, prorated taxes, and closing fees. If they will only tell you a purchase price, that is a warning.
- Are you buying it, or assigning the contract? Both are legal. But if the contract is going to be assigned, the price you agreed to is not the price the house trades at, and you deserve to know that before you sign.
- What conditions can still change this number? A clean offer has very few. A long inspection period with a broad right to renegotiate is not a cash offer, it is an option.
- Can you show proof of funds and a title company you have closed with? Then call that title company yourself.
The honest summary
Run both columns to the bottom line, then decide with the two net numbers side by side. If the listed net is far higher and you can carry the house while it sells, list it. If the two nets are close, or the house needs work you cannot fund, or a date is bearing down on you, speed and certainty are worth real money and the cash offer is a legitimate answer. What you should never do is compare a list price to a cash offer and conclude you are being lowballed by $45,000, because that comparison is not measuring the same thing.
If you want the itemized net on your specific house so you can hold it up against what an agent tells you, we will put it in writing with no obligation. Comparing us to a listing is exactly what we would want you to do.